06/27/13 10:11am

Uncle John’s hot links are revelatory.

Did you know Flushing’s Hunan House has had a sister restaurant hard by Grand Central Terminal for two years? Ligaya Mishan explores the salty, smoky, sour delights at Hunan Manor.

The Times has an interesting piece on the combination of two frosty summertime treats: ice cream and beer, including the amazing sounding “three-hops ice cream with chunks of upside-down cake baked with candied pineapple, tangerine zest and hop leaves.”

Max Falkowitz pens a love letter to Tianjin Dumpling House in Flushing’s Golden Shopping Mall. The primary object of his affection: the excellent lamb and green squash dumplings. (more…)

06/20/13 1:50pm
The décor at Oddfellows is Americana with a side of oddity, like ice cream Jesus.

Oddfellows’ décor is Americana with a side of oddity, like ice cream Jesus

When I heard about OddFellowsIce Cream Co. the Billyburg scoop shop that former wd~50 pastry chef Sam Mason opened with Holiday and Mohan Kumar, I knew it was only a matter of time before I’d be trying it. Then I read they were serving chorizo caramel swirl. That sealed the deal. Last Saturday after my latest Thai chicken skin mitzvah I stopped by the newly minted scoop shop,which lies just a cone’s throw from Smorgasburg.

Flavors range from the classics like chocolate chunk to oddballs like chorizo caramel swirl.

Flavors range from classics like chocolate chunk to oddballs like chorizo swirl.

I was so eager to try OddFellows I poked my head in before they’d even opened for the day. Two hours later I returned with my pals Siobahn Wallace, co-author of the excellent and hunger-inducing New York à La Cart and Chris Crowley, a fired-up young food writer who is to the Bronx as I am to Queens. I was somewhat doubtful Siobahn would still have an appetite for ice cream after downing a pie shake from Butter & Scotch. And Chris said he was saving his appetite for some Bronx birria. I, on the other hand had plenty of room for ice cream. The question as I perused the menu was whether to go with the classics like chocolate chunk and Battenkill sweet cream or oddballs like maple bacon pecan and chorizo caramel swirl. (more…)

04/16/13 12:25pm
Sweet and cold, El Bohio’s shaved ice is a harbinger of even warmer days.

Sweet and cold, El Bohio’s shaved ice is a harbinger of even warmer days.

Forget that groundhog. The real indicator of the arrival of warm weather is the ice cream man. Or in Corona, the shaved ice man, specifically the dude who sets up in the window in front of El Bohio Grocery. The other day after eating enough Thai food for an army I took a long walk up Roosevelt Avenue and was delighted to see that El Bohio’s shaved ice—or frio frio as Dominicans like to call it­—was in full effect. (more…)

04/15/13 9:52am
It’s packed with the goodness of goat milk—and salted caramel.

It’s packed with the goodness of goat milk—and salted caramel.

PLEASE NOTE THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED

The other day I asked my buddy Peter Cuce, the man behind  Project Latte, for a West Village coffee shop tip. Soon I found myself at Prodigy Coffee where I knocked back a perfectly nice cup of espresso. And then I headed next door to Victory Garden, for some goat milk soft serve. I’ve only had goat cheese, before so I was curious to try goat milk it in ice cream form. Victory gets its goat milk from Side Hill Acres in Candor, N.Y.

Perusing the flavors I decided to go with salted caramel. I did so for two reasons. One, I have a pretty serious salted caramel habit. And, two, fine as it was, something was missing from the espresso I had at Prodigy. That something was the salt, cream, and sugar that I’ve been adding to my morning coffee of late. The goat milk soft serve ($4.75) fit the bill on both counts. That said there was definite underlying goatiness to the frozen treat. In any event, I am glad that I tried it. Plus, according to a sign on the wall, goat milk “is is lower in fat than cow’s milk, but with all the nutrition.” Good thing considering that day’s lunch consisted of Harold Dieterle’s decadent bone marrow and uni.

Victory Garden, 31 Carmine St., 212-206-7273

03/28/13 3:30pm

Way back in the day before I was a professional glutton, before Sriracha sauce was a staple condiment, I was an English major. So in honor of my roots today’s edition of The Seven is devoted to some of my favorite poems about food. For your dining pleasure I’ve suggested food pairings.

1. The Emperor of Ice Cream, by Wallace Stevens
Pair this dark and strange poem with a bowl of freshly whipped cream.

2. A Supermarket in California, by Allen Ginsberg
Beat Poet Allen Ginsberg’s encounter with his inspiration Walt Whitman in a supermarket. Pair with “artichokes . . .[and] every frozen delicacy.”

3. The Clean Plater, by Ogden Nash
Nash’s ditty about an indiscriminate passionate eater is best paired with,”Food/Just food/Just any old kind of food.” That said the author seems to have a preference for
sirloin and asparagus tips vinaigrette.

4. This Is Just to Say, by William Carlos Williams
This classic apologizing for author’s snatching some fruit from the fridge is best paired with cold, sweet plums. (more…)

03/11/13 12:48pm
An ice cream parlor twist on an Italian classic.

An ice cream parlor twist on an Italian classic.

When I was a kid I loved ice cream sodas. As an adult I discovered the affogato, a very grown-up Italian treat that takes its name from the word for “drowned.”  It’s a scoop of ice cream with a shot  of espresso poured on top. One day I was in Eddie’s Sweet Shop, the quintessential Queens ice cream parlor and I noticed they had had an espresso machine.

“Do you make affogatos?” I asked. The kid behind the counter had never heard of one, but proceeded to tell me about the Donovan, an off-menu creation of one of his co-workers. “I don’t know how to make one though,” he said. About a week later, I returned when Donovan was working and ordered his specialty. It’s vanilla chip ice cream drowned in espresso and topped with a crumbled sugar cone and hot fudge. Think of the $7 treat as an affogato as invented by Willy Wonka or a bearded soda jerk with too much time on his hands.

Eddie’s Sweet Shop, 105-29 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, 718-520-8514