04/01/13 12:04pm
Yuk hoe, steak tartare Korean style.

Yuk hoe, steak tartare Korean style.

As a kid I always wanted to try steak tartare. Even though my father was an adventurous eater he drew the line at raw flesh. No sushi, no steak tartare. It wasn’t until my late thirties that I tried it. Actually it wasn’t steak tartare, it was yuk hoe, a similar Korean dish. San Soo Kap San in Flushing has an excellent version for $17.95. Mix up the ground tenderloin with the accompanying batons of Asian pear and raw egg and dig into this carnivore’s delight.

Steak tartare at M.Wells Dinette.

Steak tartare at M. Wells Dinette.

Only in the past few years have I begun to enjoy classic preparations of steak tartare, largely at the hands of Hugue Dufour. Over the summer I had the privilege of eating some now highly controversial horse meat tartare. It was lean and delicious. Sadly Dufour’s M. Wells Dinette does not serve horse meat. Nonetheless there is excellent steak tartare to be had. Shot through with mustard seeds, and some sort of chewy grain and topped with a poached egg, the latest incarnation is quite nice. I hope the restlessly creative Dufouir keeps it around for a while.

San Soo Kap San Korean Restaurant, 38-13 Union St, Flushing NY 11354 718-445-1165
M. Wells Dinette, MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave, Long Island City, 718-786-1800

02/07/13 10:00am

As far as I’m concerned all gastronomy is molecular, and has been since the first caveman stuck the first piece of wooly mammoth meat in a fire. I’m willing to bet that Julia Child, the face of French cuisine in America for many years, had never heard the words “molecular gastronomy.” Yet here she practicing a very particular very molecular form of gastronomy to great effect for a PBS show, “The Ring of Truth: Atoms.” Mme. Child describes it as “a very special meal. And without giving too much away, it is really a rather unique meal. Child transforms the ingredients with great artistry. All this without spherification or meat glue.