To a certain kind of Chinese food aficionado the very mention of Fu Run conjures up three words: Muslim lamb chop. And it is well that it should. For the ruddy rack of lamb that’s been braised, deep fried and rolled in cumin and sesame is truly spectacular. When I showed Dave Beran the executive chef of Next around downtown Flushing a while back he told me he wanted to take it easy on cumin forward dishes. I insisted the Muslim lamb chop was a must-eat, and he relented, and was glad to have done so. As a card carrying carnivore I am loath to admit two of my favorite dishes from our Fu Run meal were vegetarian.
Green bean sheet jelly with red oil ($10.95) entangles slippery noodles with chunks of cucumber, swatches of cabbage, and peanuts. The whole lot is slicked with a chili oil dressing that has just a hint of sweetness. It will test your chopstick dexterity, but it’s a great counterpoint to the fatty richness of the lamb.
Despite the name golden corn pancake, huang jin yu mi lao ($15.95), isn’t a flapjack, but a short stack of festive looking corn croquettes. The loosely bound kernels are interspersed with carrots and peas and laid out in a star pattern. Beran was duly impressed. I can’t wait to see what he and Next unleash when they rollout their Modern Chinese menu.
Fu Run, 40-09 Prince St, Flushing, 718-321-1363