I doubt Hugue Dufour knew yesterday was National Ice Cream Day. I didn’t think to ask as I watched him dress a ceviche with olives, jalapeño, olive oil, cilantro, and red onion and then place it in a waffle cone. Before handing it off he drizzled it with coconut milk and condensed milk and showered it with sesame seeds.
Dufour’s wife and partner in culinary crime, Sarah Obraitis, had told me to come to LIC Flea to check out the $10 M. Wells Sweet Fish Ice. She described the cone as “water-proofed with a white chocolate jalapeño sealer.” I envisioned it as something of a pescatarian King Cone. That white chocolate sealant was in the bottom of the cone, not on top though.
At first the firm cobia ceviche in its coconut sauce reminded me a bit of creamed herring. Such a comparison does both fishes a disservice though. The oddball combination of the sesame waffle cone with the dressing of olives, peppers, and coconut, and condensed milk made the whole thing taste like the savory mutant love child of Thai shaved ice and ceviche. That plug of white chocolate wasn’t quite waterproof but served as a lovely little dessert. Afterwards Dufour handed me a sidecar of spicy coconut milk marinade. The whole experience was thoroughly refreshing and thoroughly strange. I look forward to eating another at MoMA PS1’s Warm Up.