Sky Cafe’s crab noodles feature the cutest fish balls ever.

There’s nothing quite as comforting as a bowl of chicken noodle soup. Here in Queens, we’re fortunate to have many varieties from mellow matzo ball to fiery pozole rojo. One of my favorite approaches to the dish is what I like to call the deconstructed Indonesian chicken noodle soup as served at Elmhurst’s Sky Cafe.

Mie komplit is a two-bowl affair. One vessel contains a light chicken broth, while the other holds egg noodles mixed with chicken and mushrooms and some greenery. Sip them separately or add one to the other, the choice is yours.

For years mie komplit was the only deconstructed soup I ordered at Sky Cafe. A closer look at the menu reveals there are several other versions, each served with the same sidecar of mellow lean chicken broth. Yesterday the mie ayam kepiting ($7) or crab meat egg noodles caught my eye. The main event here is a bowl of buckwheat colored noodles topped with crab meat, fried fish cake, wontons, greens and squishy fish balls no bigger than my pinky nail.

First a sip of soup and then some noodles. The noodles by themselves were great, intensely comforting on such a sweltering day. With the addition of a few squirts of salty sweet kecap manis and half the broth they were even better. Comfort food fit for a captain  indeed!

Sky Cafe, 86-20 Whitney Ave., Elmhurst, 718-651-9759