Chef Pedros’ chicharron de pescado taco rocks.

Last week I committed a crime against good taste. Spurred on by a blizzard of panic and the promise of free grub I ate at Chipotle. As a staunch believer in the law of culinary equilibrium, I soon realized my folly and had to set matters straight by eating some real Mexican food right quick. So the very next day I jumped on the 7, intending to grab some tacos de carnitas from Tortas Neza.

When I got there I found the window in front of Juan Bar closed, so I headed down to La Esquina del Camaron Mexicano. Chef Pedro is best known for his stellar Mexican seafood cocktails, but I remembered that he’d also started selling fish tacos, in his humble restaurant, which sits at the a back of a bodega.

The $3 fried whiting taco is easily one of the best fish tacos to be had Roosevelt Avenue, and not just because it’s the only one. Two impeccably fried, super crunchy fillets topped with onion and served with a homemade salsa roja made for a perfect light winter lunch that had me dreaming of summer.

La Esquina Del Camaron Mexicano, 80th Street and Roosevelt Avenue, Jackson Heights