The draw at the half dozen or so Argentine parilladas scattered throughout Queens is meat, specifically beef in the form of steak, or mixed grills consisting of short ribs, sausage, blood sausage, and other goodies. Many of these casual steakhouses/butchers also offer sandwiches. I love La Fusta’s skirt steak sandwich. When I’m in the mood for something a little more adventurous though, I head over to La Esquina Criolla for a sandwich de molleja, or sweetbread sandwich ($9).
Not being a butcher I’m not sure just how much sweetbreads can be harvested from one calf. I’m pretty sure that La Esquina Criolla’s gigantic sandwich contains several beast’s worth. The sweetbreads are crisp and slightly blackened, yet still creamy within.
If you’re lucky your sweetbreads will be grilled next to some steak and thus bask in some beef fat. Slather some garlicky chimichurri sauce on this gutbuster fit for a gaucho. Wash it all down with a pomelo-flavored Pasa de Los Toros soda.
La Esquina Criolla, 94-67 Corona Avenue, Elmhurst, 718-699-5579