Uni and ikura, together at last.

When it comes to salmon Bricktown Bagels is probably better known for belly lox than salmon roe. That’s not the case come nighttime when the Long Island City bagelry morphs into Mu Ramen. While the soup’s the star at Joshua Smookler’s pop-up ramen-ya, many of the “treats,” listed on the menu are well deserving of the name. Chief among these is the U & I ($15), a rice bowl which features uni and ikura, or salmon roe.

I’m a big fan of uni, ikura and puns, so I liked this dish even before I tasted it. Creamy uni and popping orbs of ikura crowned by a dollop of freshly grated wasabi sit atop the rice,which is strewn with sesame seeds and roasted nori. Underneath the aquatic duo find spicy maguro tuna. The interplay of flavors and textures is quite lovely. So lovely that you might find it hard to split an order of U & I with a dining buddy. By the way, Mu Ramen has secured a space in L.I.C. for a full-fledged ramen shop, so best to check their web site as the pop-up’s hours of operation are subject to change.

Mu Ramen, 51-06 Vernon Blvd., Long Island City, Tues-Sat 6:30 p.m.-10:00 p.m.