Slated to be one of the tastiest seafood preparations in the East Village.

When it comes to certain dishes less is more. I’m all for a complex curry with a dozen spices brimming with all manner of goodies or an overdressed báhn mì. For grilled seafood though simplicity is the best approach. That’s why today’s dish of the day is the charred head-on shrimp ($12) at Ducks Eatery.

Four generous specimens are grilled on skewers and lavished with multiple brushing of whipped lardo. And before they’re grilled  the head are injected with a mixture of  anise and chili. Simple, but just complicated enough to keep it interesting.  Served on a slate shingle  over a bed of arugula that wilts slightly from the hot shrimp it’s some of the tastiest—and messiest—grilled seafood I’ve had.  You’ll want to take your time licking every last bit of seafood infused pork butter from your fingers before heading out into the cold East Village night. I know I did.

Ducks Eatery, 351 East 12th St., East Village, 212-432-3825