Tag: smoked fish

Queens Eats
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11/21/13 10:41am

A Look at Bear’s Well-Edited Late Fall Tasting Menu

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BEAR-ASPIC

Char aspic with pomelo and lemon.

PLEASE NOTE THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED

The tyranny of the tasting menu—that feeling of being held hostage by a chef’s creativity  as course after course after course comes to the table—is a phenomenon with which I have scant experience. The only tasting menu of note I’ve had is Momofuko Ko’s and while not quite tyrannical, it was vast, running to more than a dozen courses, each quite good in its own way.  Even so sensory overload sets in by course eight or nine. It’s not that I was full, but rather that I was punch drunk on the experience, much the way I feel after wandering around an art museum for too long. So when Chef Natasha Pogrebinsky of Bear invited me to try to her $85 seasonal tasting menu, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect.   (more…)

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Lower East Side
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03/13/13 10:02am

The Meshugge at Russ & Daughters is Insanely Delicious

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Why opt for one type of smoked fish on your bagel when you can have three.

Why opt for one type of smoked fish on your bagel when you can have three.

I didn’t grow up with the Jewish appetizer platter in my household. Every now and then though the old man would get some sable or lox, and I developed a taste for smoked fish. Occasionally I will get a sable and cream cheese sandwich at one of the local bagelries in my neighborhood. When I’m feeling especially decadent I’ll head to Russ & Daughters on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. The 99-year-old temple of appetizing makes a little forshpayz they call the meshugge ($20.75). It consists of a trifecta of smoked fish—sturgeon, sable, and salmon on a bagel or bialy—with cream cheese. This decadent bagel sandwich is worth every penny. Call me crazy, but I’ve a feeling I’ll be visiting R&D some time in the very near future.

Russ & Daughters, 179 East Houston St. , 212-475-4880

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