What was once a tofu stand now specializes in fried treats like these braided Korean donuts.

Many of the Korean supermarkets that line Northern Boulevard in Flushing feature food courts, and sometimes even full-blown restaurants. Take H&Y Marketplace, it boasts an outdoor stand specializing in various porridges and the casual restaurant HanYang BunSik, which was extolled by Ligaya Mishan in the Times. While it doesn’t have a food court, it did have a rather large station devoted to fresh tofu. Or at least it did until about 6 months ago.

As I learned last weekend the tofu stand has been replaced with a specialist in fried fish cake. I wasn’t quite in the mood for fried fish cake, but soon noticed the lady behind the counter was sampling cut up pieces of freshly fried donuts.

Coated in granulated sugar, the doughy braids are known as kkwabaegi. As I strolled down Northern munching on this still warm treat I recalled the zeppole that my mother would fry up for me every St. Joseph’s Day.

You can find a recipe for this Korean treat on the wonderful Korean cuisine web site Maangchi. If you’re not inclined to cook, just pay the market a visit. With any luck the kkwabaegi will still be warm.

H&Y Marketplace, 150-51 Northern Blvd, Flushing