I’m not typically a brunch guy, but I’ve been known to make exceptions. M. Wells for one with Hugue Dufour’s decadent creations like foie gras and oatmeal, and now Farine. I’ve been meaning to try the lobster roll from the brunch menu, but I’m averse to weekend crowds.
On Monday night I stopped by to introduce a friend to Michael Mignano, the man behind the hot new Jackson Heights eatery. I’d forgotten it was the last night of Ramadan and the last night of Farine’s Iftar dinners. Every table was filled with joyous Muslim families all tucking into spicy fried chicken sandwiches and fruit plates.
“We’re going to have it tomorrow as part of an EID brunch,” Mignano told me when I asked about the lobster roll, which I’d been seeing on the gram for weeks.
So the next morning I returned to satiate my desire for the lobster roll. I’ve eaten my fair share of lobster rolls in Maine and New York City, but I’ve never had one quite like this. A buttery toasted split-top bun is lined with lettuce cradling lobster sluiced with a lemony sauce. It eats like a cross between the classic summertime sandwich and a luxurious butter poached lobster.
At $22 it’s by no means cheap, but given that it’s better than any butter poached crustacean I’ve ever eaten, it was well worth it. The lobster is partially poached and then finished with a lemon beurre blanc that offsets the rich meat. The whole affair is further brightened up by a dill lemon zest aioli that’s spread on the bun.
“Chef Danny and I wanted to make a dish where summer fun meets luxury, and a lobster roll hits on all cylinders,” Mignano said. Good job, fellahs.
Farine Baking Company, 74-24 37th Ave., Jackson Heights