A popular Tunisian street food has come to Queens.

I’m a big fan of what I like to call the Tunisian tuna sandwich at Roast n Co. Essentially it’s a salad nicoise sandwich kicked up with a bit of spicy harissa spread. Back in Tunisia it’s a common street food, as are the spicy little lamb sausages known as merguez. Recently the Forest Hills cafe started running a merguez sandwich ($9.95) as a special.

Several ruddy little lamb sausages are packed into a crusty baguette along with greens, cherry tomatoes, olives, cucumber, onions, and of course harissa. It comes with a choice of salad or French fries. I always get the fries, since a) they’re excellent, and b) there’s already a salad in the sandwich.

Meat and potatoes, Tunisian style.

The other day I stopped by and Chef Sami offered me another option. “You know I can put the fries in the sandwich,” he said, “and leave out the salad.” I’m not a big fan of fries or “chips,” as they are sometimes called at falafel joints, in sandwiches. Usually they wind up a soggy mess, but since Roast n Co’s fries are always really crunchy, I figured it would work.

This time around the little sausages were grilled to perfection, bearing a nice sear from a cast iron pan, which I prefer. A cross section of this Middle Eastern meat and potato hoagy reveals three lamb sausages blanketed by fries. The combination of the savory merguez, salty olives, and fries was excellent, although I felt like a nap afterwards. Good thing they have nice strong coffee.

Roast n Co, 100-12 Queens Blvd. Forest Hills, 718-263-6000