Back when I was a third-tier line cook in a pub, we used to keep pea shoots in house. They were great in salads and even better to munch on in the walk-in whilst shirking my duties. I would never have thought to put the peppery shoots on a breakfast sandwich. That’s exactly what Brothers, a new concession at Rockaway Beach, has done though.
It’s tempting to think of Brothers $8 breakfast sandwich as a merely an Egg McMuffin gone green, but it’s really a locals only breakfast sandwich. Those pea shoots come from a garden on Beach 97 Street, and the spelt flour blend muffin is made by local baker Diwa.
“She basically bakes exclusively for us,” one of the brothers, Matt Webster, told me as I waited for breakfast. “She’s going to be baking out of Whit’s End soon.”
The combination of garlicky pesto, cheddar, and the greenery made for a nice pre beach breakfast. There were also some crunchy little bursts of flavor incorporated into the egg. At first I thought they were miniature onion croutons. Then Matt informed me that crispy fried chives are folded into the omelet. Roasted pumpkin seeds stand in for pignoli nuts in the garlicky green pesto.
The Webster brothers serve breakfast from 7:30 a.m. to 11:00 a.m., perfect for an early beach outing. They also make a kimchi grilled cheese for lunch. As good as that sounds, I’m wondering what it would take for this chili head to persuade them to put kimchi on a breakfast sandwich.
Brothers, Rockaway Beach Boardwalk at Beach 106 St., Rockaway