I’m a simple man when it comes to pizza. Buffalo chicken, ham and pineapple and other novelty pies are not for me. I prefer an old-school NYC slice, as executed by New Park Pizza or Margherita. There are some notable exceptions to this otherwise rigid pizza protocol: the falafel slice at Benjy’s, Zuppardi’s fresh clam pie, and the pesto slice at Dani’s House of Pizza. That last one, a sauceless slice stained green by pesto and flavored with basil and garlic is utterly delectable. The way the crust fries in the oil from the pesto is an added bonus to this oddball slice.
Dani’s takes great prides itself on the sweetness of sauce on its regular slice. It’s a bit too sweet for this pizza eater, but that never stops me from getting one regular and one pesto. On a recent visit I had the brilliant idea of creating my own novelty slice, by stacking a pesto slice atop a regular. “It will be a veritable Christmas morning of a stacked slice,” I thought as I sipped a Coke waiting for the red and green slices to emerge from the oven.
Any hopes of my creation being twice as nice as either slice were soon dashed when I bit into it. If anything this Dani’s Christmas stacked slice was somehow less than the sum of its parts: The pesto and sweet sauce cancelled each other out. It was tasty but I’d have preferred each slice on its own, ideally the savory pesto followed by the sweeter one for dessert. The best thing I can say about it is that at least the slices were each the same size.
Queens born and bred rapper Action Bronson counts himself a fan of Dani’s. I like to think that he’s a purist when it comes to pizza too and can imagine him saying, “Stack paper, not slices kid.” It’s a sentiment that’s all too easy to forget in age where mashups plague everything from the humble hamburger to the classic donut.
Dani’s House of Pizza, 81-28 Lefferts Blvd., Kew Gardens,718-846-2849