La Cevicheria’s got the best mixto in Rockaway Beach.

Few things are more refreshing and delicious on a hot summer day than a good Peruvian ceviche. Fresh fish marinated/cooked with plenty of lime served showered with red onions and with the traditional accompaniments of camote (sweet potato), cancha (toasted corn kernels), and mote (hominy corn) makes for a fine summer meal. Until last week my go-to was ceviche pescado, with ceviche mixto a distant second. Thanks to Rockaway Beach’s La Cevichería, I have a newfound respect—and craving—for ceviche mixto.

“Is there orange juice in this?” I asked of the mixture of white fleshed fish, salmon, shrimp, and calamari that sat in a sunny yellow liquid. “No it’s Peruvian yellow pepper,” the ceviche mixologist responded. Aji panca, was not the only pepper in my ceviche though. When I requested that it be made picante I was offered two options: a sauce made from imported Peruvian rocoto peppers or freshly chopped ones. I opted for the latter.

La Cevichería’s ceviche mixto is the best ceviche mixto I have ever had: bright and spicy and teeming with fresh fish and seafood. It’s perfect beach food. As for that bracing orange liquid, I savored every last drop, just like one should savor the waning days of summer itself.

La Cevicheria, Beach 97 St. Concessions, Rockaway Beach