Every time I step into the Grand Central Oyster Bar I feel like I’m in an old movie. The vaulted tile ceilings and décor speak of a time when rail travel was still grand,when gents wore fedoras cocked just so, and when oysters were decidedly more plentiful and cheaper. I’m not a commuter, but I like to think of it as a haven from the teeming crowds on the terminal’s upper level. A haven where I always order the same thing: a dozen mixed oysters, preferably East Coast ones, the brinier the better.
I’ve been there dozens of times and my order has never changed, or at least I didn’t until I spotted the caviar sandwich ($12.95) on the menu. I’d just split a dozen oysters with an old friend, and decided to give this luxe sandwich a try. Never has white toast achieved such lofty heights as it does when it encases a layer of precious roe, topped with chopped hard-boiled egg, and raw onion. The sandwich comes with a little tub of crème fraîche. I only wish there was another little tub filled not with fancy-pants sour cream, but more caviar. Still and all it was a refreshing and tasty change of pace from my usual bivalve feeding frenzy.
Grand Central Oyster Bar, Grand Central Station, 89 E. 42nd St., 212-490-6650