08/07/13 10:20am

M. Wells’ Jambon de Paris, a Gallic Surf & Turf

Surf and turf for French philosophers.

Surf and turf for French philosophers.

“Is it a sandwich?” I asked of the jambon Paris ($14) which appeared on the chalkboard menu at M. Wells Dinette beside the word croissant. “It’s a deconstructed sandwich,” the waiter said, explaining that it involved a torn up croissant and mayonnaise made from the fish escolar. As a friend reminded me last night deconstructed is a phrase that was once more commonly used to describe philosophy or fashion, not sandwiches. In any event a croissantwich would be too ordinary for the M. Wells crew. Deconstructed or not the slices of rosy French ham drizzled with escolar mayo and topped with torn up pieces of croissant made for a tasty snack. Each forkful—buttery and sweet croissant, silky ham, and mayo—was like a little sandwich in itself.

M. Wells Dinette, MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave at 46th Ave., Long Island City, 718-786-1800

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