06/28/13 11:06am

The Soap Candy Inspired Wild Ginger Parfait at M. Wells

Thankfully, it tastes nothing at all like soap.

Thankfully, it tastes nothing at all like soap.

“We’re going to make you something.” Sarah Obraitis of M. Wells Dinette said to me last week. I’d just consumed a decadent plate of boudin blanc, with scallops and sweetbreads along with an herb salad. I mumbled a refusal thinking the only thing I could possibly eat was a wafer thin mint à la Mr. Creosote. “This is the type of thing you get at Le Bernardin,” she continued brightly. “It’s inspired by soap candy that Hugue ate as a kid in Canada.” Sarah walked away leaving me to ponder the notion of soap candy.

The wild ginger parfait ($12) is served in a snifter filled with a soapy looking foam, poached blueberries, and a granola like substance the menu calls “oat crumble.” A purple wafer of dehydrated apricot perched atop the overflowing foam. It’s one of the stranger desserts I’ve ever seen. For a moment I considered spiriting it away to one of MoMA PS 1’s upstairs galleries. Then I dug in. The foam tasted nothing at all like detergent and was scented with wild ginger. Digging down into the snifter I brought up spoonfuls of sweet blueberries and granola. It was entirely delicious in a very summery way, just slightly more filling than a wafer thin mint. Best of all, it tasted nothing at all like soap. A quick Google search reveals that soap candies actually do taste like soap. When it comes to weird candy I’ll stick with salty licorice.

M. Wells Dinette, MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave at 46th Ave., Long Island City, 718-786-1800

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