01/04/13 2:00pm

Consider The Espresso—And the Oyster


Despite appearances that’s not a glass of stout.

Oysters are one of nature’s perfect foods. Each briny bivalve is a self-contained serving best taken neat the better to enjoy its invigorating oceanic liquor. No sir, no mignonette or Tabasco for me. Perhaps a pint of stout, but certainly nothing on the oyster itself. At first glance the ebony elixir above looks like a wee bit of the black stuff, but it’s not beer. It’s espresso.

Yes, espresso. A single oyster and a single shot of espresso—one the very essence of the sea, the other the very essence of the coffee bean. It’s a combination partly born from taking morning coffee strong with sugar, sea salt, and cream. And partly due to one of my favorite chefs Hugue Dufour of M. Wells Dinette. Back when he was slinging high-falutin hash out of a diner there was a dish of oysters with coffee sabayon. I honestly don’t remember whether if I tried it. But it stuck in my mind.

Too full for dessert after a recent lunch of bone marrow with escargots, rabbit terrine with foie gras,and blue cheese salad my mind returned to the combination. Luckily the classroom-cum restaurant has oysters on hand as they feature in its BibiMWells. Soon I had a set-up before me. Bringing the oyster to my lips and tasting the brine while luxuriating in the aroma of the coffee was simply amazing. Is an oyster shucking barista—an ostricista—too much to ask for?

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