Taiwanese | Chopsticks and Marrow

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by Joe DiStefano

10/30/18 11:30am

Behold Sun Mary’s Gigantic Taiwanese Pineapple Cake

by Joe DiStefano

It’s not a Pop-Tart, but it makes a great breakfast.

Sun Mary Bakery lies across the street from Golden Shopping Mall and the Q-58 bus, which takes me from my home in Rego Park to America’s greatest Chinatown in downtown Flushing. On food tour days, I pregame there with a pineapple bun, so named for the sugary crust’s similar appearance to the tropical fruit.

In a lot of ways Sun Mary is a typical New York City Chinese bakery. The shelves are lined with buns filled with pork floss, and come fall there’s plenty of mooncake, but it also has a small sideline in Taiwanese treats, notably feng li su, or pineapple cake. Unlike its Chinese cousin, the golden brown buttery treat does contain fruit. Sun Mary sells the tiny pastries in little golden boxes, making them a perfect parting gift for food tour guests. Sometimes, they even have one with salted egg yolk.

“No more,” the lady behind the counter told me about a month ago when I asked for feng li su, indicating that they wouldn’t be back until next fall. Two weeks ago I noticed a flat pastry sitting in the spot on the counter normally reserved for the pineapple cake. Turns out it is gigantic version of the Taiwanese treat. Since I have no idea how long it will be around, I have taken to eating one after every Flushing tour.

Sun Mary Bakery, 133-57 41st Rd, Flushing, 718-460-8800

feng li su, Flushing, food tours, Golden Shopping Mall, pineapple, Q-58, Sun Mary Bakery, Taiwanese

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by Joe DiStefano

07/20/18 12:34pm

An Ode to Happy Stony’s Stupendous Fried Buns

by Joe DiStefano

When it comes to Taiwanese cuisine I hardly ever think of bread or buns unless it is in the context of gua bao, the pork belly bun topped with sweetened crushed peanuts and pickled greens that’s as popular a street food, in Taipei as it in Flushing. And I almost never think of sweet buns, but all that changed at Elmhurst’s Happy Stony Noodle last night when I tried a Taiwanese specialty called zhá yín sī jüǎn, or deep-fried silver thread roll, that I honestly can’t stop thinking about. (more…)

dessert, Elmhurst, fried buns, Happy Stony Noodle, Taiwanese

Dish O' The Day

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by Joe DiStefano

08/07/17 9:25am

Pulau Pinang’s Malaysian Pork Chops are Outstanding

by Joe DiStefano

Spicy pork chops by way of Elmhurst, Malaysia, and perhaps Taiwan.

One of my favorite Elmhurst spots for a late night snack is Pulau Pinang, the wonderful Malaysian restaurant in the infamous all-food strip mall on Broadway. My go-to meal is usually char kway teow or assam laksa.

The other night I was out for a solo birthday meal and in the mood for something different, something festive. So gave a dish with the rather unassuming name “Malaysian salt and pepper pork chops,” a whirl. I had a good feeling about it, and I was right. (more…)

Elmhurst, late night, Malaysian, pork chops, Pulau Pinang, Taiwanese

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by Joe DiStefano

11/16/16 11:39am

Fly Heads and Three Cup Chicken Fit for an Emperor

by Joe DiStefano

flyhea

Fly heads are not what you think. Photo: Stephen Yen

When talking Taiwanese food in Queens one or two names always pop up: Taiwanese Gourmet in Elmhurst and the rather loftily named Main Street Imperial Taiwanese in Flushing. The latter lies at the southern end of Main Street away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Flushing. Thankfully it lives up to its name and executes all the classics rather well.

Main Street Imperial is a favorite among my local Taiwanese foodie friends. It’s also a go-to spot for Chef Trigg Brown of East Williamsburg’s hottest new Taiwanese spot, Win Son. as I learned while dining with him and a bunch of chefs and food nerds the other night. (more…)

Flushing, fly heads, Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet, san bei ji, Taiwanese, Trigg Brown, Win Son

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by Joe DiStefano

09/14/16 1:25pm

Tour Asia in LIC This Weekend at the Mid-Autumn Asian Feastival

by Joe DiStefano

Ejen's Korean noodles are just one of many dishes that will be served at the Mid-Autumn Asian Feastival.

Savor Ejen’s Korean noodles at the Mid-Autumn Asian Feastival.

Queens has long been home to New York City’s real Chinatown. In addition to tons of top-notch regional Chinese food the borough boasts some of the best Asian food in New York City. That’s why C+M is proud to partner with LIC Flea & Food for the first-ever Mid-Autumn Asian Feastival being held all this weekend from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Join us to experience the flavors of Korea, Taiwan, India, Indonesia, Japan, and Thailand at this very special festival. There’s only one place this weekend to enjoy Indian dosa, Taiwanese fried chicken, Korean noodles, Indonesian satay, and Japanese ramen and that’s the Feastival! (more…)

Dish O' The Day

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by Joe DiStefano

04/14/16 12:04pm

Gourmet Guts via Taiwan and Elmhurst

by Joe DiStefano

IntestineTaiwan

Sticky rice for all the offal lovers in the house.

A few months ago I made my first ever Chinese New Year’s resolution: eat more Taiwanese food. Lucky for me Taiwanese Gourmet is just a few subway stops away from C+M headquarters. I’ve slowly been eating my way through the Elmhurst eatery’s menu. Recently I started exploring the vast selection of offal. There are more than half a dozen preparations of intestines, including two varieties of goose innards. One of my favorites is something that goes by the Chinese name da chang bao xiao chang, which translates loosely to big intestine wrapping little intestine.

“The Chinese name doesn’t describe anything about the food,” Taiwanese Gourmet’s manager, Alvin Chen told me explaining that the dish consists of a glutinous rice stuffed pig intestine that’s been steamed and sliced. A disc of Taiwanese pork sausage is then placed between each slice. (more…)

Alvin Chen, Chinatown, Chinese, dim sum, Elmhurst, offal, Taiwanese

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by Joe DiStefano

02/09/16 4:34pm

Fried Chicken and Pork Belly Sandwiches via Taiwan and Elmhurst

by Joe DiStefano

yensuji

Taiwanese Gourmet’s exquisite salted crispy chicken.

Taiwanese Gourmet is one of a handful of Chinese restaurants in Elmhurst that for one reason or another I have not explored. I’ve passed by it for years on my way to Elmhurst’s Thai Town and have seen it go through two name changes, but until just the other week I’d never dined there. (Believe it or not, even this intrepid omnivore has his hangups and blind spots.) But I’m here to tell you that I have seen the light, and it shines forth from Taiwanese Gourmet’s yen su ji , or salted crispy chicken ($8.95). (more…)

Chinese New Year, Elmhurst, fried chicken, pork belly, Taiwanese, Taiwanese Gourmet

Dish O' The Day

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by Joe DiStefano

10/20/15 5:01pm

Of Fly Heads and Compensation Meals

by Joe DiStefano

FLYHEAD1

Despite its name, this Taiwanese specialty contains no fly heads whatsoever.

“We’re having lunch with KF Seetoh,” my good friend Colin Goh messaged me a few weeks back. “Want to come?” Given the chance to dine with the demigod of Southeast Asian hawker food, I immediately cleared my schedule and hastened to Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Specialties.

The man behind Makansutra who’s working on Bourdain Market turned out be a regular guy, albeit one who’s really, really into his food. Our little group ordered several dishes including something known in Chinese as “chive flowers with fly heads.” (more…)

Bourdain Market, Colin Goh, Flushing, fly heads, fried chicken, KF Seetoh, Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet, Taiwanese

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by Joe DiStefano

08/25/15 12:15pm

Flushing’s Happy Beef Noodle Resurfaces in Elmhurst

by Joe DiStefano

happystony

Dude . . . let’s get some Taiwanese noodles.

When leading food tours of downtown Flushing, I often boast that it is America’s best Chinatown. I’m also fond of pointing out Queens has two Chinatowns: the bustling hub that radiates outward from Main Street and Roosevelt Avenue and a little sister in Elmhurst. Until now there’s been little interchange between the two. All that changed with the opening of Happy Stony Noodle a couple of weeks ago.

“OMG where is that,” more than one friend asked when I sent a photo of Elmhurst’s oddest named and newest Taiwanese eatery. My pals’ surprise can be traced to the fact that Happy Stony isn’t new at all. It’s a reboot of Happy Beef Noodle (Kuai Le Niu Rou Mian) a much-loved spot on Prince Street that closed years ago. (more…)

beef noodle soup, Calamari, Elmhurst, Flushing, Happy Beef Noodle, Happy Stony Noodle, noodles, openings, Taiwanese

Sandwich Wednesday

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by Joe DiStefano

06/03/15 10:24am

The Crispy Pancake’s Fish Sandwich Rocks

by Joe DiStefano

A fish sandwich with a sidecar.

A fish sandwich with a sidecar.

PLEASE NOTE THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED

Truly good Chinese sandwiches are few in and far between in Queens. While the yang rou jiao mou—a spicy cumin lamb sandwich from Xi’an Foods—remains a long-time favorite, the house special pork chop from The Crispy Pancake is my current Chinese sandwich crush. A deep fried pork cutlet topped with lettuce and crowned with a runny fried egg is stacked between two shatteringly crisp pancakes, forming one of the craziest, most delicious Chinese sandwiches in downtown Flushing. (more…)

Bigelow's, Chinese, closed, fish, Flushing, food courts, sandwiches, Taiwanese, The Crispy Pancake, Xi'an Famous Foods