It’s not a Pop-Tart, but it makes a great breakfast.
Sun Mary Bakery lies across the street from Golden Shopping Mall and the Q-58 bus, which takes me from my home in Rego Park to America’s greatest Chinatown in downtown Flushing. On food tour days, I pregame there with a pineapple bun, so named for the sugary crust’s similar appearance to the tropical fruit.
In a lot of ways Sun Mary is a typical New York City Chinese bakery. The shelves are lined with buns filled with pork floss, and come fall there’s plenty of mooncake, but it also has a small sideline in Taiwanese treats, notably feng li su, or pineapple cake. Unlike its Chinese cousin, the golden brown buttery treat does contain fruit. Sun Mary sells the tiny pastries in little golden boxes, making them a perfect parting gift for food tour guests. Sometimes, they even have one with salted egg yolk.
“No more,” the lady behind the counter told me about a month ago when I asked for feng li su, indicating that they wouldn’t be back until next fall. Two weeks ago I noticed a flat pastry sitting in the spot on the counter normally reserved for the pineapple cake. Turns out it is gigantic version of the Taiwanese treat. Since I have no idea how long it will be around, I have taken to eating one after every Flushing tour.
Sun Mary Bakery, 133-57 41st Rd, Flushing, 718-460-8800
This pillowy sandwich is filled with an absurd amount of pork fluff.
As a kid I never really dug Fluffernutter sandwiches. I think it has something to with them not being quite savory enough, after all I was the type of kid who ate Accent out of the jar and cut notches in apples to fill them with lunch meat. Last week I had something at Flushing’s Sun Mary Bakery that I’m pretty sure I would have been happy to find in my lunch box: the Chinese Fluffernutter Sandwich.
Perhaps my nickname for rou song dan gao, or Chinese dry pork cake ($2.50), is an exaggeration, but it definitely has the same junk-food gone healthy sensibility as its Western counterpart. Rou song, or dried pork stands in for the peanut butter, in this cakelike bun. A sweet pillowy roll is split and slathered with a buttery spread and then topped with a ridiculous amount of dried pork fluff. It is savory, sweet, and decidedly unwieldy. Bits of crunchy sweet-and-salty pork fluff will fall out as you bite into it.
A strong iced coffee cuts through the fatty sweetness of the bun. I think I may like it better than the old school roast pork buns I used to eat with my old man at Mei Lei Wah in Manhattan’s Chinatown. By the way I’m pretty sure this item is not unique to Sun Mary Bakery, I’d be curious to know how many folks prefer it to the American Fluffernutter.
Sun Mary Bakery ,133-57 41st Rd, Flushing, 718-460-8800