03/11/13 12:48pm
An ice cream parlor twist on an Italian classic.

An ice cream parlor twist on an Italian classic.

When I was a kid I loved ice cream sodas. As an adult I discovered the affogato, a very grown-up Italian treat that takes its name from the word for “drowned.”  It’s a scoop of ice cream with a shot  of espresso poured on top. One day I was in Eddie’s Sweet Shop, the quintessential Queens ice cream parlor and I noticed they had had an espresso machine.

“Do you make affogatos?” I asked. The kid behind the counter had never heard of one, but proceeded to tell me about the Donovan, an off-menu creation of one of his co-workers. “I don’t know how to make one though,” he said. About a week later, I returned when Donovan was working and ordered his specialty. It’s vanilla chip ice cream drowned in espresso and topped with a crumbled sugar cone and hot fudge. Think of the $7 treat as an affogato as invented by Willy Wonka or a bearded soda jerk with too much time on his hands.

Eddie’s Sweet Shop, 105-29 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, 718-520-8514

01/10/13 11:23am
Knish Nosh has stuffed cabbage too, who knew?

Knish Nosh has stuffed cabbage too, who knew?

Knish Nosh has been selling its potato-based snacks for more than half a century. A couple of years ago what was once a tiny storefront expanded and added a chef, Ana Vasilescu, and a list of specialties as long as my arm. Among these is an excellent cold-busting matzo ball soup. I had a quart of for breakfast yesterday. Sometimes I like to get a plate of perogies filled with corned beef and smothered with caramelized onions.

“Try my stuffed cabbage,” Ana has said to me on more than one occasion. So the other day I did. It’s known as sarmale de varza in her native Romania. The tender leaves enfold a tasty mixture of rice, ground beef and herbs. Each roulade is $3.50 and comes with a hearty tomato sauce. And to think the only comfort food I thought came out of her kitchen was matzo ball soup.

Knish Nosh, 100-30 Queens Blvd., Forest Hills, (718) 897-5554