04/04/18 9:33pm

When winter ain’t playin’, it’s time for Himalayan!

It’s been two years since Kamala Gauchan, my adopted Nepalese mother, decamped from Queens’ Himalayan Heights to Manhattan’s Curry Hill. Back when she held court in her shoebox of a restaurant carved out of a corner of Tawa Roti I ate her food weekly. These days I trek to her roomier spot on Lexington Avenue whenever I have a dental appointment. Which happened to be the case during Monday’s snow storm.
After a filling, it was time to fill my belly. When I entered Dhaulaghiri Kitchen, Gauchan and her crew had just opened for the day and a mantra to Ganesh—Om Gan Ganapataye Namo Namah—played over and over on the flat screen next to a signed photo of Andrew Zimmern. For a moment I considered jhol momo—dumplings in a spicy broth—but I knew soup was the ticket for a wintry spring morning. (more…)

01/15/14 9:53am

A million years ago when I worked in an office, breakfast sandwiches—two eggs, with cheese, and bacon—as served by New York City coffee carts were a favorite way to start the day. In the culinary wonderland that is Queens, there are all sorts of breakfast sandwiches from all over the world. Today, a look at a few of my favorites.

 WF-SW-CAMOTE

1. Chicharron con camote at Broadway Bakery
Chicharron con camote, a sandwich of crunchy, fatty pork and sweet potatoes is a typical breakfast sandwich in Peru. The combination of the orange camote and crunchy salty pork with pickled onions and Peruvian rocoto chili pepper paste is quite satisfying. Broadway Bakery, 81-15 41st Ave., Jackson Heights, 718-457-6523

Fried crullers wrapped in eggyfried flatbread.

2. Jiān bĭng at Oriental Express Food Court
Find the jiān bĭng,or titanic Tianjin Breakfast wrap as I like to call it at the Oriental Express Food court, a few storefronts south of Golden Shopping Mall. It consists of a thin pancake coated in egg and studded with chives wrapped around a yóutiáo, or Chinese cruller. Somehow this carb-on-carb bonanza makes an old-school NewYork City egg on a roll seem like health food. Oriental Express Food Court, 41-40 Main St., Flushing (more…)

04/03/13 11:15am
A breakfast sandwich hack, Thai style.

A breakfast sandwich hack, Thai style.

“That looks kind of like crispy bacon,” was one of the first things I thought when I saw the package of Thai pork jerky ($6.50) on the counter at Thai Thai Grocery. A stack of translucent sheets of pork—seasoned with soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, black pepper, and cinnamon—sat on a paper doily inside the clear plastic box. And then I tasted it. Spicy, sweet, porky, crunchy, and, above all, mouth-watering. It was so good that I had to hide it from myself lest I eat it all in one sitting.

I forgot all about the pork jerky until I came home with a buttered toasted everything bagel this morning. What came next is what I hope to be the first of many such sandwich hacks. Layered on top of the toasted bagel, the thin ruddy sheets of Thai pork added a nice crunch, along with a spicy sweetness to this new breakfast sandwich. There is somewhat of a history of Thai folks running bagel shops in New York City. I think they’d be well advised to add my creation to their menus.

Got a favorite sandwich, or a hot tip on a new sandwich shop? E-mail me here.

Thai Thai Grocery, 76-13 Woodside Ave., Elmhurst, 917-769-6168