05/24/13 4:25pm

Last Saturday I still had a whole hog hangover and a had food tour to lead so I knew there was no chance I’d be able to attend the Forest Hills Indonesian Food Festival, even though it was practically in my back yard.  So I’m very glad that my pal Peter Cucè agreed to do a guest post about it.  Peter’s a food-obsessed coffee lover who chronicles New York City cafe culture via his website, Project Latte. Like me he is an old school Chowhound who truly lives (and travels) to eat. Peter has eaten his way through nearly every cuisine available locally and beyond and is now systematically working his way through regional Chinese and Korean food in Flushing and cataloging his efforts on Flickr and intermittently, on Tumblr. Catch him on Twitter @petekachu. Take it away Pete . . .

Indonesian Food Festivial | Forest Hill | Queens

The Queens-based southeast Asian food festivals have been coming thick and fast now that spring has sprung, beginning with the mid-April Songkran New Year festival at the Thai temple in Elmhurst, followed a week later (Sunday April 21st) with the inaugural 2013 date of the monthly outdoor Indonesian food festival at Astoria’s Masjid Al Hikmah, and Myanmar’s Lunar New Year fair rounding out the month.

May hasn’t been slouching in this department, with this past weekend seeing another Burmese festival, one that happens periodically in the warmer months, at Aviation High School, a one-off Indonesian food festival this past Saturday, a fundraiser for the Roslin Orphanage in Kupang, Indonesia, held at the First Presbyterian Church of Forest Hills, and this coming Sunday, the second iteration of the monthly Indonesian mosque festival held in the parking lot behind Astoria’s Masjid Al-Hikmah.

Besides being indoors, compared to the monthly mosque festival, this past weekend’s Indonesian event was conceptually different, because pork was on the menu. Although Indonesia is predominantly Muslim, Christians make up around 10% of the population and tend to be Javanese or Chinese-Javanese, while people cooking at the mosque are most likely predominantly Sumatran. This has an effect on the food available at each event, with the church’s Central Java leanings resulting in overall sweeter food, seasoned with kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) and palm sugar, compared to the mosque, where dishes tend to be spicier and more savory, with flavor enhancers such as shrimp paste.

Indonesian Food Festivial | Forest Hill | Queens

Since there wasn’t anywhere for the participants to do more than the most rudimentary cooking (in actuality just reheating), this event for the most part offered food cooked ahead time and assembled at the church, whereas at the mosque a good portion of the food is cooked from scratch on site.

Once my Indonesian posse and some other friends arrived, we armed ourselves with $20 or so worth of tickets each and spread out, hunting for tasty items and bringing them back to the group for sharing, a useful strategy for trying lots of things without getting full too quickly.

Indonesian Food Festivial | Forest Hill | Queens

On the side of the dimly lighted, cavernous room opposite the door, one of the first tables was staffed by several generations of women ladling soto babat, a yellow tripe soup with glass noodles, into quart-size plastic containers. (more…)

05/24/13 2:04pm

Uncle John’s hot links are revelatory.

Saveur’s Editor-in-Chief James Oseland finds the best in-flight meal ever, the bibimbap from Korean Airlines.

The madmen over at the Lower East Side’s Eastwood have created a falafel scotch egg. What would Clint think?

Nick Solares, aka Beef Aficionado continues to make me hungry with an in-depth look at Porterhouse’s steak program. Three words: dry-aged fat baste.

And just in time for Memorial Day meat maven Josh Ozersky pens a Wall Street Journal piece on the New ‘Cue, which includes such wonders as the smoked marrow pho with brisket and house-made spicy Thai sausage at San Francisco’s Hi-Lo BBQ.

The kids over at Home Sweet Queens catch a case of momo fever after the Second Annual Momo Crawl.

Early this week Texas Monthly’s Daniel Vaughn the mag’s barbecue editor, issued “A Declaration of Barbecue War,” which includes such provocative statements as “Texas barbecue has no peer on earth.” There’s also a companion piece wherein Vaughn spars with John Shelton, an expert on North Carolina barbecue. Check out Shelton’s takedown of chain barbecue restaurants: ”pick-your-meat, pick-your-sauce, mix-and-match International House of Barbecue places that are increasingly common in our cities. True, they’re in North Carolina or Texas and they’re serving what they call barbecue, but it’s not North Carolina barbecue or Texas barbecue; it’s food from nowhere, for people from nowhere, who deserve nothing better.”

Robert Moss, a proud Carolinian fires back at Texas Monthly: “I could go on about the numerous contradictions and inconsistencies inherent in Texas Monthly’s barbecue jingoism, but here in the Carolinas, we try to be gracious. When we go to visit friends and they insist their 9-year-old daughter play us her latest recital piece on the violin, we clap when she finishes and murmur warm words about how well she played, considering her young age. If Mr. Vaughn or Ms. Sharpe offered us a plate of brisket or beef ribs from Snow’s or the Pecan Lodge, we would accept it graciously and say at the end of the meal, ‘My, that roast beef sure was tasty.’ Because our mamas raised us to be polite.”

05/20/13 9:50am
Phayul’s momo took home the prize after a three-way tiebreaker.

Phayul’s momo took home the prize after a three-way tiebreaker.

Forget the James Beard Awards. When it comes to recognition in the culinary arts I’m all about the Golden Momo. Yesterday was the Second Annual Momo Crawl in Jackson (aka Himalayan) Heights. The object of the event organized by Jeff Orlick was to find the best momo of the 20 places in the hood.  I am still trying to wrap my brain around the fact that there are 20 places offering the beef dumpling beloved by Tibetans and Nepalese, I thought there were a dozen at most. I was unable to attend the crawl as I was giving a food tour of Elmhurst, but judging from the activity on the Twitter machine, the rain did not keep folks away.

One of Phayul’s momo maestros with the coveted trophy.

One of Phayul’s momo maestros with the coveted trophy.

Late yesterday evening I learned that Phayul took first prize after a three-way tie-breaker with Ganjong Kitchen and Lhasa Fast Food. I was pleased to hear this as Phayul is one of my favorite Tibetan spots, so much so that I took Andrew Zimmern there. So I jumped on the 7 train to get a glimpse of the coveted Golden Momo and help my friends at Phayul celebrate.

The Dalai Lama flanked by a basketball trophy and the Golden Momo.

The Dalai Lama flanked by a basketball trophy and the Golden Momo.

When I got to Phayul it was crowded—not with the 80 momo crawlers that had roamed the streets earlier in the afternoon—but with the usual mix of Tibetan families and young people all eating momo. I shared a table with a couple who each had an order of momo ($5). They were amazed both by the Golden Momo, and the fact that I was thoroughly enjoying their national dish. As I slurped a complimentary bowl of  beef stock, the Nepalese gent next to me asked if the restaurant was given the award last year. “No, earlier this afternoon,” I replied. “It’s one of my favorite place for Tibetan food.” Oh and if Phayul isn’t your favorite momo place, don’t worry there are 19 other joints to choose from.

Phayul,  37-65 74th St, Jackson Heights, 718-424-1869

05/16/13 9:30am
Thai rock reopens Monday.

Thai Rock reopens Monday.

Indonesian Food Bazaar
Saturday, May 18th, 2013
12:00–3:00 p.m.
First Presbyterian Church of Forest Hills
70-35 112th Street, Forest Hills
If you’re as big a fan of the Indonesian food festivals held at Astoria’s Masjid Al Hikmah as I am you won’t to miss this event. A group of self-professed Indonesian foodies from Forest Hills is hosting this shindig,which will feature martabak, gado-gado, satay and many other Indonesian specialties. Proceeds benefit Roslin Orphanage in Kupang, Indonesia. I will probably not be able to make it as I’m doing a food tour that day, but I am glad to know that there are Indonesian foodies in Forest Hills!

Smorgasburg
Saturday 11 a.m.-6p.m.
East River Park, the waterfront at N 7th St.
As much as I love to hate on Brooklyn and its legions of gastronerds I have to admit to a soft spot for Smorgasburg. And now have even more reason to like it, my pal Noah Arenstein’s Scharf & Zoyer and its wacky New School take on Old School deli. Did somebody say kugel double down?

Second Annual Momo Crawl, Sunday, May 19, 1:30 p.m.
Meeting place: Jackson Heights Plaza, 37th Rd between 74th Street and Broadway
Local business booster and fresser extraordinaire Jeff Orlick takes to the streets and dumpling parlors of Himalayan Heights for the Second Annual Momo crawl, celebrating the dumplings beloved of Tibetans and Nepalese and their makers who “who have the courage not to open up a Subway.” Meet at the designated spot where you can purchase a momo map for “two bills of any denomination.” Momo eaters will be organized into teams of eight, and a spiffy trophy will be awarded to the winner after all the teams’ votes are tallied.

Thai Rock Reopens, Monday, May 20
375 Beach 92nd Street, Rockaway Beach
I haven’t been able to bring myself to go to Rockaway Beach since Hurricane Sandy. That said I am very glad to know that Thai Rock reopens Monday. I’m gonna do my darnedest to stop by. You should too. Here’s a statement from the owners.

We miss you.  We miss working.  We miss the normal commotion, you know, the things we normally complain about, and although we are not fully ready to serve you as we once did, we are opening our doors Monday and will continue to work day-by-day improving everything we can and always strive to provide the best food, drinks, music, water sports and other diversions.

Our goal is to make your experience at Thai Rock like being on vacation and now more than ever, we will do all we can to bring our customers much needed joy, good times and great food.

One lesson I learned since being in the restaurant business is “good enough is good enough”.  I admire the people who instinctively know this, but for me, it’s a hard learned lesson that still requires more work.  Like the cliché about Rome, I now so much more appreciate the importance of the journey and that the “goal” is merely a milestone along the way and not a destination.

Friends, we have been on a journey together and individually that we did not ask for, that we were not prepared for, for which we sacrificed and lost much, and, to this day, our governmental support net is still not properly supportive.  Together we are challenged as a community, to rebuild, to be strong and united, and to help one another.  Individually, we each have a responsibility to keep our families healthy, to keep ourselves vital and to strengthen our resolve for the future because that is the promise.  The future is the goal.  The future is where the journey takes us and it’s each and every one of our responsibilities to protect, promote, nurture and encourage a positive and health future.  This is our strength.  This is our wealth.

So, Thai Rock is not what it was, but it’s better than it’s been and we will keep on making it better and now it is good enough to open.  Please come by and visit, our menu will be extremely limited to start, and we will only have the outdoor deck open, but it sure will be great to see you again.  Hugs are permitted.

05/10/13 12:55pm

Uncle John’s hot links are revelatory.

Fellow Queens fresser Jeff Orlick offers his take on Smorgasburg, complete with a ginormous Flickr set. He marvels at Crazy Legs’ turkey drumstick schtick and counts himself a fan of Porchetta.

Over at the Voice my main man, Robert Sietsema makes me hungry for the 17-item Cypriot mega-mezze spread and some awesome looking octopus at Astoria’s Kopiaste.

Writing for the Times Peter Kaminsky, who’s perhaps best known to this carnivore for his book “Pig Perfect,” tells a mouthwatering tale of a beefier nature, an Argentine “Secuencia de la Vaca.”

Meat maven Nick Solares pens an ode to Osteria Morini’s 120-day-aged ribeye, which has “a profoundly funky, Gorgonzola cheese like tang thanks to the long aging, and a correspondingly buttery, tender texture.”

My favorite culinary Vikings over at First We Feast take a look at U.S. chefs’ ramen creations, including some that”stretch the definition of ramen a little too far.” Delicious as it sounds I’d put the Pozolemen from Chi-town’s at Oiistar in that category.

Sandwich Surprise ponders whether lettuce wraps can be considered sandwiches, and answers with a delicious-sounding yes: bulgogi lettuce wraps with kimchi chips and fried rice. Best of all, as always there is a recipe.

Looking for a more ambitious, and historical recipe to try? Stop by The Morgan  Library and Museum to check out a 15-century cooking scroll written in Middle English.

05/06/13 10:00am
Stella xxxxx

Stella enjoying the festivities.

“I cook with feeling and without exact measurements,” reads the tag line for Cooking with Stellaaa, my friend Stella Dacuma Schour’s food blog. To that I would add, “and I eat with abandon.” Stella was kind enough to provide this guest post about last Friday’s Lucky Rice Grand Feast. I’d have attended but I’ve been too busy trying to hit every Southeast Lunar New Year celebration in Queens. Take it away Stella!

“Pig’s blood? Do you like that? Pig’s Blood Popsicle?” Wing asked. “Yes! In my pearls and heels. I will eat pig’s blood. I will be your fat date,” I responded.

My friend Wing invited me to the Lucky Rice Grand Feast at the Mandarin Oriental three hours before the event was slated to start. I was pretty excited about this gala because I have heard so much about it that friends who live in Toronto are itching to fly over and eat, eat, eat!

As we entered, we were serenaded with bossa nova by the Chinese chanteuse perched atop a circular stage surrounded by bartenders and chefs. Around it was another round of tables with more food and drink. No detail was spared, and having all of this magnificent set up with sweeping views of New York City from the Grand Ballroom of the Mandarin Oriental it was, eating and boozing at its finest.

lucky-foie

Morimoto’s memorable eel and foie gras buns.      Photo:  Wing Lee

The food was definitely amazing. While the pig’s blood popsicle by Chef Brad Farmerie of Public was possibly the weirdest of the lot , I was excited to try Chef Foon Green of Betel’s signature betel leaves. Everything I tasted was absolutely amazing, however I would say the dishes I could not forget were Chef Morimoto’s eel and foie gras steamed buns (Morimoto), Chef Khamia Vongsakoun’s hot and sour clam soup (Kittichai), and Chef Hong Thaimee’s pomelo salad (Ngam).

Brad Farmerie'spig's bloofdpoppsicles.

Brad Farmerie’s pig’s blood popsicles.

The pig’s blood popsicle was chewy on the outside, and mushy on the inside. To me this is a very refreshing take on this “nasty bit” as I am used to eating it in a stew called dinuguan (Bloodied Stew, if we want to go for a literal translation) or as a street food, cut up in cubes and grilled, which we Filipinos lovingly call Betamax. It reminded me of the pig’s blood cake that I had in a Taiwanese restaurant but without the weird aftertaste. To me, it was a succulent reminder of home.

Lucky Rice Grand Feast was very well executed and I even went home with a bright red tote bag that included a Kyocera ceramic peeler and food guides. Would I go back again next year? YES!

05/02/13 10:10am

Uncle John’s hot links are revelatory.

Ligaya Mishan of the Times weighs in on Salt & Fat in Sunnyside whose pork belly buns are capable of “evoking not so much a Big Mac as your best childhood memory of it.” Mishan’s takeaway: “. . . not every dish is hellbent on living up to the restaurant’s name.”

Over at The Atlantic Michael Moss writes about a food that is hell-bent on the use of salt, fat, and sugar: the potato chip. Apart from an incisive analysis of why chips are so addictive, or craveable as snack industry gurus like to say there’s this revelation: ”chip companies spend a lot of effort creating a perfectly noisy, crunchy chip.”

The Village Voice offers a hit list of the city’s 10 best French fries, including Mile End’s wonderful looking smoked-meat poutine fries. Sadly the only entry for Queens is Huajio fried potatoes at Little Pepper.While the Sichuan-accented fries are quite good, surely Joju’s ultracrunchy bizarre banh mi fries deserve a spot.

And Tejal Rao makes me incredibly hungry for the pristine flavors and jewel-box presentation of Japanese vegan cusine as served at Kajitsu in Midtown.

O.G. ethnic food enthusiast Robert Sietsema files a dispatch headlined, “Shanghai Newcomer Full House Brings Back Soup Dumplings.” I’m sure the xiao long bao at this Bowery spot are quite good, but here in Queens soup dumplings never left.

Over at Esquire’s Eat Like a Man John Mariani writes about his bromance with the Bronx hood, Belmont where one can score fresh mozzarella that’s still warm and slurp clams on the sidewalk. Sign me up, John.

Max Falkowitz endures the wrath of a surly paesan working the counter at Little Italy’s Parisi Bakery and orders a dreadnought of a sandwich: a potato and egg on an 18-inch loaf of lard bread. Now why didn’t I think of that.

05/01/13 12:21pm
Meat maven Josh Ozersky and pitmaster Robbie Richter parade a barbecued ewe.

Meat maven Josh Ozersky and pitmaster Robbie Richter parade a barbecued ewe.

I’ve just about recovered from what I’ve taken to calling ‘Mini-Meatopia.’ For that’s exactly what Monday’s pop-up at Alchemy, Texas BBQ was. Meat maven Josh Ozersky and pitmaster Robbie Richter teamed up on a menu that included everything from short rib to a grass-fed Vermont ewe, all cooked in Alchemy’s gigantic smoker. It was the first of hopefully many pop-ups. It was a very special night for barbecue and Jackson Heights with a globe-trotting menu that spanned from Jamaica to Uzbekistan.

First up: bulgogi tacos,with gojuchang aioli.

First up: bulgogi tacos,with gojuchang aioli.

For the past few years Richter has been moving away from American barbecue and experimenting with Asian flavors, notably at Fatty Cue and the upcoming project Roadhouse L.A. with the Umami Burger crew. So it’s not surprising that the evening’s meaty offerings started with bulgogi short rib tacos. They were served with kimchi, and a zippy aioli made from the Korean fermented bean and chili paste, gochujang. My one complaint was the flour tortillas. That did not stop me from eating two tacos, though. (more…)

04/26/13 3:28pm
Burmese noodle salad.

Burmese noodle salad, just one of many dishes at Sunday’s food fair.

Smorgasburg
Saturday 11 a.m.-6p.m.
East River Park, the waterfront at N 7th St.
As much as I love to hate on Brooklyn and its legions of gastronerds I have to admit to a soft spot for Smorgasburg. And now have even more reason to like it, my pal Noah Arenstein’s Scharf & Zoyer and its wacky New School take on Old School deli. Did somebody say kugel double down?

Sikh Day Parade and Festival
Saturday, April 27, 12:15-5:00
Madison Square Park, Manhattan
This parade provides not only provides an opportunity to celebrate Vaisakhi Day, but to take part in a huge gratis vegetarian feast. It’s like the Sikh version of the Big Apple BBQ Block Party. (more…)

04/24/13 3:45pm

Uncle John’s hot links are revelatory.

Serious Eats New York files a review of the “raw and unafraid, maybe a little off-kilter” home cooking that my homegirl Big Sister Zhu is slinging at Flushing’s Lao Cheng Du.

I count myself a big fan of the pork belly at Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi in Murray Hill, now there’s another reason to love the Korean joint with the smiling piggy in the window: cold naengmyun noodles served in a bowl that is itself made of ice.

Pete Wells’ one-star New York Times review of Randazzo’s Clam Bar in the County of Kings makes this Italian-American boy hunger for “calama “with “the Sauce.”

I can’t remember the last time I ate on Brooklyn’s Smith Street, but Tejal Rao’s review of Nightingale 9′s Southern American-Vietnamese cuisine and its “fried rice crisped in pig fat” makes me want to hop a train to Carroll Gardens right now.

Thanks to O.G. Village Voice food writer Robert Sietsema, I now know where my pal Phillip Kirschen-Clark is cooking these days: Café Cluny in the West Village.

C+M did not win Saveur’s Best New Food Blog Award. That’s O.K. though because the hilariously healthful Thug Kitchen did.

Team Eater weighs in on the new Difara’s spin off from the family of Midwood pizza god Dom Demarco. I sure hope they have the artichoke pasta I used to enjoy way back in the prior millennium.

And over on Eating in Translation my man Dave Cook makes me want to trek to Little Serow in Silver Spring, Md., for Thai “chicharrones” with nam prik narohk, or “chili paste from hell.”