Beef sukuti chow mein comes with a sidecar of two-tone hot sauce.

The jhol momo—dumplings in a spicy soul-warming tomato and chicken broth—are so good at Nepali Bhanchha Ghar in Jackson Heights, that I often forget there are other things to eat at the homey spot whose name means Nepali eating house.

For a long time those other things consisted of sukuti thali—a platter bearing a mound of rice and funky goat jerky—ringed by various tiny heaps of pickles, including bitter melon and radish, and a bowl of buttery lentil daal. That and the rice and ghee doughnuts known as tsel roti.

Not onion rings, but rather tsel roti, a rice ‘doughnut’ that treads the line betwixt savory and sweet.

The other day though I found myself at Yamuna “Bimla” Shrestha’s restaurant craving noodles. I’d often seen the cooks frying up batches of chow mein, but ignored that part of the menu due to jhol momo monomania.

There are more than a half dozen varieties of the stir fried noodles, including chicken and beef, but I went for beef sukuti because it’s not every day one gets to eat Nepali beef jerky noodles. The tangle of noodles was shot through with bits of veggies—cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, and broccoli—and chewy little bits of beef. It had a pleasant chili heat on its own, but was even better with the accompanying sidecar of hot sauce mixed in. Along with a cup of hot sweet milky tea, it made for a pleasant late night meal.

Next time I’ll ask for noodles with goat sukuti—an option that does not appear on the menu—that is unless I revert back to eating jhol momo!

Nepali Bhanchha Ghar, 74-06 37th Rd., Jackson Heights, 718-806-1409