“They’re all pretty big,” I said to two recent guests on a World’s Fare Eating Along the 7 food tour. We were about an hour into our trek and had already enjoyed delicacies from Joe’s Steam Rice Roll and Soybean Chen and had just arrived at Tortas Neza, which specializes in comically huge Mexican sandwiches. I was doing my best to steer the two ladies toward a carnitas taco, but l knew they really wanted a sandwich.
The gargantuan 7-ingredient Tortas Puma named for the owner’s favorite Mexican soccer team was out of the question. So I scanned the roster of 20 creations, each named for a different team, and settled on the Chivas, which listed only three ingredients: huevo, quesillo, and chorizo.
As Galdino “Tortas” Neza prepared the sausage omelet on the plancha I told the guests it represented just one component of his biggest sandwich. “We can handle this one, it’ll be like a Mexican breakfast sandwich,” I said with a chuckle.
Of course I knew full well the torta named for Club Deportivo Guadalajara S.A. de C.V. colloquially known as Chivas, would be much bigger than a classic New York City breakfast sandwich. As my guests eyes widened, I asked Tortas to wrap half and cut the remainder in three.
I’m not sure if tortas like this are eaten for breakfast in Mexico City, but the Chivas was certainly the best and biggest sausage and egg cheese that I’ve eaten underneath the 7 train in Queens. The smoky spicy chorizo played nicely with the salty stringy cheese and the cool lettuce and mayo provided a nice textural contrast.
Tortas Neza has a few sandwiches on the menu with only one ingredient, notably the Tortas Puebla, which features a milaneza or breaded chicken cutlet and the Tortas Tigres whose main ingredient is quesillo. Even though they sound minimalist, I’m quite sure that they’re over the top, which as it should be.
Tortas Neza, Juan Bar, 96-15 Roosevelt Ave.