10/16/17 11:54am

Shun Wang’s HK Lo Mein Combo is Pure Cantonese Comfort

Can’t decide between won ton, roast pork, or noodle soup? Don’t worry Shun Wang’s got you.

I’ve been forsaking my heritage. By that I refer not to red sauce—OK fine we called it gravy—with which my father baptized me every Sunday, but rather the Cantonese food he fed me, thus beginning my lifelong love affair with Chinese cuisine. So when a friend posted a mouthwatering image of the HK lo mein at Shun Wang, I knew I had to try it.

“You know what this is?” the waiter at this Cantonese holdout in the increasingly Thai neighborhood of Elmhurst asked incredulously. “Yes,” I lied. “It’s steamed noodles,” he responded. Up until two days ago my Cantonese noodle knowledge was limited to chow fun and the thicker version of lo mein.

Shun Won offers roast pork and wonton as toppings, so I followed my friend’s example and asked for both ($10.50). “Wow good choice, are you Chinese?!” my new friend exclaimed. In short order I was presented with a steaming bowl of soup. I took a few sips and added some chili oil. I was quite pleased that soup was part of the deal as I almost decided to get a bowl instead of the HK lo mein.

Soon enough my HK combo arrived, a tangle of thin noodles ringed by greens and topped with a heap of char siu pork. Off to the side sat several lovely wontons lashed with oyster sauce. I started out by eating the noodles, char siu and dumplings separately between sips of soup. Pretty soon I was dipping the springy noodles in the broth and eventually combined them. It’s a way of eating noodle soup that I was first exposed to at a nearby Indonesian restaurant.

My father would have loved Shun Wong’s noodles as well as its gruffly tender waitstaff. As for me, I can’t wait to plumb the depths of its menu as well the other Cantonese offerings in Queens.

Shun Wang, 81-25 Broadway, Elmhurst, 718 -779-3330

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