The Bund’s pork and crab soup dumplings.

“They should call this place mei you xiao long bao,” I cracked to a buddy on one of my first visits to The Bund, a newish Shanghai spot in Forest Hills. Two chefs from Shanghai and nary a soup dumpling in sight. Apparently the guys who started it wanted to make the point that Shanghai cuisine consists of so much more than XLB.

I’m not sure if they made their point, but I’m happy to say that they’ve changed their minds about XLB. They recently introduced soup dumplings to the menu. Today I stopped in with some friends for a steamer full of pork and another of pork and crab. The skins were a bit on the thickish side, but they were fine otherwise, certainly the best in the hood. As long as they don’t start selling those ridiculous novelty dumplings with the straw the Bund is all right by me.

Pork belly sandwiches by way of Taiwan, Shanghai, and Forest Hills.

We also had an order of something the menu listed as The Bund Special Pork in Pancake Wraps, which I knew to be my old friend the Chinese hamburger or gua bao. Special is the operative word here, the pork was cooked into wobbly, succulent submission. The only thing missing was a bit of pickled vegetables to round out the sweetness. Good thing there was still some vinegar on the table from the XLB.

The Bund, 100-30 Queens Blvd., Forest Hills, 718-275-8000