Seafood sticky rice balls are gloriously golden brown.

The menu at Diverse Dim Sum is as advertised, running to some 30 items, including various pancakes, noodles, dumplings, and other snacks. The soup dumplings at the oddly named Shanghai xiao chi specialist are so good—thin of skin and fragrant of broth—that I’ve sampled hardly anything else on the menu.

I’d been hearing great things about the seafood sticky rice ball ($3), so the other night a carb craving friend and I decided to have it as a sidecar to an order of xiao long bao. Hai xian zi fan gao, as they’re known in Chinese, come two an order and they’re more blocks than balls.

“Chinese pizza,” the lady behind the counter said as she presented the pair of golden brown slabs.

A peek at the fluffy interior.

I have no idea why she would call the toasted rice and seafood treat pizza, perhaps because of its salty flavor. The crunchy exterior gives way to soft rice. The seafood, which appears to be in the form of finely chopped dried krill and seaweed, imparts a lovely maritime essence to both the crispy outside and the fluffy innards. If you like shrimp crackers and carbs you’ll love these. They’re so good I’m going to make them part of my Chinatown food tours.

Diverse Dim Sum, New York Food Court, No. 12, 133-35 Roosevelt Ave., Flushing, 347-925-5716