A mess of delicious Malaysian noodles from PappaRich.

One of the first things my father taught me about Chinatown is that it’s always changing, always evolving in new and delicious ways. That’s as true of Hong Kong and Macau as it is of Manhattan—the old man’s stomping grounds—and Flushing—my stomping grounds. One Fulton Square, a newish mixed use development is at the forefront of these changes in Flushing. It contains more than a dozen eateries ranging from high-end sushi (Iki) and Sichuan (Szechuan Mountain House) to specialty coffee (Presso). PappaRich, the second U.S. outpost of a Malaysian chain, is the latest addition to what’s fast becoming an Asian Times Square.

My hunger for content—and Malaysian food—spurred me to keep a close eye on the upstairs purveyor of Malaysian food that overlooks Prince Street. Thus I found myself there on its third day of being open. It’s too early to weigh on the entire menu, largely because I’ve eaten only one dish: char kway teow.

My own papa, a fan of chow fun, would have really dug PappaRich’s version of the classic Malaysian stir fry of flat noodles. Crowned with plump prawns the tangle of chewy ribbons is shot through with egg and garlic chives. The banana leaf it’s served on is a nice touch, too. The menu lists it as a spicy dish, and sure enough there’s a warm mounting heat that seems to come from invisible hot peppers. Dig down to the bottom of the tangle of noodles to find several broad slices of fish cake fanned out on the leaf.

Good as it is PappaRich’s char kway teow isn’t the best I’ve had in New York City. That distinction goes to Simpson Wong’s Chomp Chomp, but only because it’s enriched with teeny-tiny chunks of pork fat. I’m eager to explore the rest of the menu at this latest addition to the Flushing dining scene. Welcome to Chinatown, PappaRich!

PappaRich, One Fulton Square, 39-16 Prince St, Flushing, 718-888-9307