Photo: B.A. Van Sise

Just as New York City delis have their Italian combo sandwiches–some as big as your forearm like the Bomb at Sal, Kris, and Charlie’s and some garlicky, like the Uncle Joe at Sorriso’s—New Orleans has its muffuletta. Now the Big Easy favorite has come to Sunset Park, Brooklyn, thanks to John Ratliff, of Ends Meat NYC. Ratliff’s muffuletta is lighter and greener, but no less delicious than any I’ve had in New Orleans.

The sandwich begins with the namesake Sicilian muffuletta roll from Generoso’s, a fourth-generation Italian bakery. Ratliff always uses his housemade mortadella and rotates out the other meat. On the day I visited it was cacciatorini, a black peppercorn salami.

That’s it two meats, no cheese. A minimalist muffuletta if you will. There are of course olives and pickled veggies—kalamata mixed with beets, cauliflower, red onion, cabbage, kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts—otherwise the sandwich wouldn’t really be deserving of the moniker muffuletta.

The bright green band flanking the charcuterie comes from a pesto of parsley and capers. “We saturate the bread with that parsley caper oil so the pickle liquid doesn’t sog out the bread.” Ratliff also presses each sandwich for two to three hours before serving.

I’m glad I tried the muffuletta from Ends Meat NYC. I’m even gladder to announce that Ratliff’s whole-animal salumeria will be competing at the first-ever Charcutierie Masters being held at Flushing Town Hall on Feb. 27. For tickets and more info on this celebration of meaty times, please click here.

Ends Meat NYC, Unit 38, Industry City Food Hall, 254 36th Street Sunset Park, 718-801-8895