A fish sandwich with a sidecar.

PLEASE NOTE THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED

Truly good Chinese sandwiches are few in and far between in Queens. While the yang rou jiao mou—a spicy cumin lamb sandwich from Xi’an Foods—remains a long-time favorite, the house special pork chop from The Crispy Pancake is my current Chinese sandwich crush. A deep fried pork cutlet topped with lettuce and crowned with a runny fried egg is stacked between two shatteringly crisp pancakes, forming one of the craziest, most delicious Chinese sandwiches in downtown Flushing.

Friends have been trying to convince me to try the fish version at the stand run by an affable Taiwanese fellow who goes by the name Jack. The other day I finally did. It is every bit as good as the pork version. And it comes with a surprise, a sidecar of extra fried fish which, apparently cannot fit between the pancakes. Apart from Bigelow’s it’s some of the best fried seafood I have had in a long time.

The Crispy Pancake New York Food Court, 133-35 Roosevelt Ave, Flushing