Brisket with Swiss and gravy and pastrami at David’s.

I’ve been hearing about David’s House of Brisket for ages. The Crown Heights institution is unusual in several respects. Not only is it a Jewish deli in a neighborhood better known for jerk chicken and doubles, it has the distinction of being the only Jewish deli run by Yemeni Muslims. So when my pal Noah asked me to have lunch there with him I said yes.

“You’ve got to get the brisket with cheese and gravy,” Noah said, reminding me that even though it serves Jewish comfort food, David’s is decidedly not kosher.

We ordered up a brisket on a club roll with Swiss and gravy and a pastrami on rye and split each. It was good deli, but not great. I supposed living down the street from Ben’s Best has spoiled me. What was a great and a truly only in New York experience was hearing the counter guys kibitzing in Arabic as we ate our sandwiches. Still and all I’m glad I made the trip. If lived in the hood, David’s would definitely be in my restaurant rotation.

David’s Brisket House, 533 Nostrand Ave., Crown Heights, 718- 789-1155