Esther Choi’s kimchi ramen is a bowl of fiery porky goodness.

On this first real day of winter with snow falling and the remnants of a head cold I wish I was in Chelsea Market. Actually, scratch that I wish was in Mok Bar, to hell with the rest of the market and its hordes of gastrotourists. A bowl of Esther Choi’s kimchi ramen ($13) would do this body good right about now.

At times like these spicy soups are a go-to, and Choi’s doesn’t disappoint. Not only is the fiery broth packed with kimchi and springy noodles, it has a double dose of pork thanks to smoky bacon and a nice chunk of meat.

Choi’s broth has a lip coating fattiness that’s the hallmark of many a good Japanese ramen. I asked the waitress if there was pork fat in broth and she shook her head no. I am not sure if the richness of the broth came from the bacon or something else, but I sure wish I could get a bowl delivered to my desk right now!

Mok Bar, Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave., 646-964-5963