It’s a far cry from those pizza shop mysery meat sandwiches.

Up until a few years ago the word “gyro” conjured up images of the languidly spinning towers of mystery meat. And then I tasted BZ Grill’s pork gyro. It’s a sandwich that simultaneously elevated my opinion of pork itself and the oft-maligned gyro. Instead of mystery meat the pita is stuffed with succulent slices of pork with crispy edges. It’s one of Queens’ finest sandwiches.

BZ Grill’s towers of power.

The sign on the roof of Astoria’s BZ Grill proclaims to the world, “New York’s Best Gyro.” They’re not lying either. The first thing one sees upon entering this tiny Cypriot spot is the two twin spits of meat—one of chicken, one pork—lazily rotating as sizzling juices drip downward helping to create a burnished crunchy exterior. Unless you really like chicken, you’ll want to get the pork version ($7.12). Feeling especially hungry? Gild the pita with French fries for a Greek take on meat and potatoes. Sometimes I like to think of it as decidedly unkosher shawarma.

BZ Grill,  27-02 Astoria Blvd, Astoria,  718-932-7858