09/03/14 10:02am

Takashi’s Caviar and Calf Brain Elevates Offal

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And the award for most whimsical calf brain presentation goes to . . .

There are many, many wonderful beefy things to eat at Takashi, the Japanese nose-to-tail homage to all things bovine. Niku uni ($24)—tiles of marbled chuck flap atop a shiso leaf topped with uni—comes to mind, as does the miso marinated sweetbreads served over squid ink rice ($20). The place is a paradise for offal lovers. Each of the beast’s four rumens is on offer for tabletop grilling. Today’s post isn’t about any of those things, though. It’s about a sandwich, a sandwich of caviar and calf brain.

 

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That’s no macaron.

Takashi’s calf’s brain cream tube with blini and caviar ($35) is of course not a sandwich in the sense that the Grand Central’s Oyster Bar’s caviar sandwich is a sandwich. A squeeze of creamy rich calf’s brain mousse on a blini topped with briny caviar is lovely. Top it with a second disk and it becomes the daintiest most deluxe calf brain sandwich in New York City.  Next week C+M will return to more conventional sandwich fare.

 Takashi, 456 Hudson St., (212) 414-2929

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