‘Sweet noodles’ lashed with sesame sauce and topped with garlic paste.

Cold sesame noodles are an American Chinese staple that I haven’t eaten in quite some time. It’s not that I don’t like them. It’s just that the hyper-regional, hyperauthentic hawker stands that I frequent don’t serve them. Yesterday I learned that there’s a warm Sichuan version of this dish. It goes by the moniker sweet sauce noodles. Or at least it does at Cheng Du Tian Fu, my favorite Sichuan snack stall in Flushing’s Chinatown.

Cold sesame noodles chewier Sichuan cousin.

The good folks at the Sichuan xiao chi stand at the bottom of the stairs in Golden Shopping Mall can call them sweet noodles, but this $4.50 plate is more savory than sweet. The bone white strands are topped with sesame sauce and a good tablespoon of garlic paste. Shot through with toasted sesame seeds, they sit in a lake of slightly sweet soy sauce. I mixed the whole lot up with my chopsticks and dug in. The chewy nutty garlicky yet slightly sweet noodles were a nice change of pace from the incendiary usual Sichuan suspects.

Cheng Du Tian Fu, No. 31, Golden Shopping Mall, 41-28 Main St., Flushing