As much as I love eating my way around the world without ever leaving Queens, I have a huge soft spot for the psychedelic Canadian bistro/diner/art project that is M. Wells Dinette. Hugue Dufour’s combination of bistro classics, with nose-to-tail and sheer Quebecois farmboy whimsy keeps me coming back. Beef Wellington, along with, escargots, foie gras, caviar, and Dover sole falls into a class of foods that this product of a suburban lower middle class Italian-American home thinks of as luxurious.

Until a snowy lunch last Friday at M. Wells Dinette I’d never tried the classic dish. I was simultaneously surprised and relieved that the Dinette’s $34 version didn’t have a name like M. Wellsington. Given its straightforward approach I can see why. A rosy filet mignon along with some lovely mushrooms, chanterelles if memory serves, wrapped in burnished puff pastry sat in a lake of rich reddish sauce. Buttery and decadent, it made for a fine winter’s lunch along with a lovely little lemon meringue pie.

M. Wells Dinette, MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave., Long Island City, 718- 786-1800