Every now and then I have a dish that revolutionizes the way I think about a particular foodstuff.The goat leg ($26) I ate at M. Wells Dinette last Friday is such a dish. Served over a bed of chanterelles and sunchokes it was phenomenal. So phenomenal I immediately took to the social media with a picture of the half-eaten portion captioned, “Saddle of Unicorn.” Fine grained and slightly sweet with no trace of gaminess whatsoever, it might as well have been the flesh of that mythical beast.
It was part of the restaurant’s Goatober specials,which that day also included goat liver and cavatelli with goat meatballs. What’s that you say you haven’t heard of Goatober? Me neither until I spoke to the restaurant’s chef de cuisine Aidan O’Neal this morning. Every week this month the restaurant has been breaking down two goats. “What on earth did you do to that goat to make it taste so good?” I asked. Little more than wrap it in Saran, season it with salt and pepper, and cook in a steam oven for 13 hours, O’Neal explained. As for why it tasted so ethereal he said “It’s really high quality goat.”
“Hugue [Dufour] and Jeff,the chef at the [forthconming] steakhouse, slaughtered 1,000 goats on Tuesday with the guys from Madina Halal,” Oneal said. “They gifted us one of their goats.” Expect a lot of goat dishes on the menu at M. Wells this Thursday kids. You can bet but your britches I’ll be there.
M. Wells Dinette, MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave at 46th Ave., Long Island City, 718-786-1800