Mint and toasted rice play supporting roles.

PLEASE NOTE THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED

I like steak tartar well enough, but I never knew there was a Thai version until I asked about the num tok koy ($9) at Zabb. “It’s raw beef,” the waitress said. I’m not sure if I said, “bring it on,” but I know that’s what I was thinking. It’s a hillock of ground beef doused with lime juice and shot through with roasted chili powder, kaffir lime leaf, onion, mint and cilantro. Crunchy toasted rice add textures. It’s delicious, and it’s only available at Zabb’s original Queens location.

Zabb Elee, 71-28 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside, NY 11377, 718 426-7992